Refurbishing a Classic Monitor (Page 2)|
By, William Stephens
Disconnect the pattern generator/videogame and the AC power connections to the monitor,
Once you have your capkit in hand, it's time to remove the chassis from the monitor frame and CRT. There are several things to disconnect, the most dangerous however is the CRT Anode wire. That's the thick wire coming from the flyback transformer and going to the CRT with a suction cup at that end. This is your high voltage lead so don't touch it right away... you may get a 20,000 to 30,000 volt shock.
You need to discharge the CRT first. I use a high voltage probe because I have one.
Most people don't have one of these, so you can fake one out of a plastic handled screwdriver and a clip lead.
You can now disconnect the anode lead from the CRT by pinching the rubber suction cup and gently pushing side to side in order to free the connector pins which are usually like wire hooks. With the anode disconnected you can proceed to disconnect the other plugs that connect the CRT to the chassis. Start by gently removing the neck board from the end of the CRT. You will notice a ground wire attached to the neck board coming from the CRT. Disconnect this wire... these usually are connectorized, if not, clip or unsolder it from the neck board. Remember where it was connected. Next disconnect the yoke magnet connector from the main board, these can take some rocking to disengage... be gentle. all that's left is the degaussing coil connector, unplug this and you're ready to remove the chassis from the monitor frame.
Unscrewing the chassis can be a little confusing. Most monitors allow the chassis to come free with the removal of a couple of screws usually along the rear lip or edge of the chassis. In the case of the Toei, it's three screws along the rear flange of the chassis. Once these screws are removed (and saved in a safe place) you can gently and slowly pull the chassis out taking care not to snag any wires from the chassis or neck board.
Surprisingly, the Toei is almost completely clean, just a little soot on the flyback and anode wire. A few blasts of compressed air, a quick wipe and it's clean as new, no bath required. This is very unusual for a monitor of this age.